When Cartier unveiled its latest high jewelry collection, Nature Sauvage, during an elaborate ball held at the Grand Hall of Vienna’s Austrian National Library back in May, one thing was clear: The big necklace continues to be the ne plus ultra of high jewelry. Sure, there were lavish bracelets, such as a Panthère that wrapped around the wrist and up the hand, coiling into a ring with a singular sugarloaf emerald attached to it. There was also a Panthère brooch, worn on the shoulder with a curved design that reinforced the collection’s focus on a trompe l’oeil effect.

But for the most part, it was the necklace that ruled, done in every sort of iteration, from juicy Tutti Frutti bibs in carved emerald, sapphire and ruby, to graphically set diamonds and giant drops of rubellite and aquamarine, to onyx-and-diamond collars with a distinct nod to Cartier’s Art Deco legacy (echoed also by attendee Sofia Coppola’s coral-and-diamond lariat).